Growing herbs in a pot is an easy, visually appealing way to have fresh cuttings at your fingertips.  I always think of two things when planting a pot of fresh herbs, their water requirements and growth habit.  I like to place the herbs that drink more water together.  Subsequently, I place the herbs requiring drier conditions together.  The herbs that require more water here in Florida are: basil, parsley, dill, cilantro & mint.  Those that require less water are: rosemary, thyme, oregano, bay leaves, culantro (similar to cilantro, but can handle our warmer months), lemon verbena, & tarragon.  Next, when I look at growth habit, I place the trailers close to the side of the pot and the more upright growers in the middle.  The trailers like to hang over the side to keep their leaves from too much contact with wet soil.  I find this especially true for thyme and oregano.  For dry and wet herbs,  the upright growers are: basil,dill, parsley (this can work nicely on the side of a pot too), cilantro, rosemary (there are creeping Rosemaries that do well too), tarragon & lemon verbena.  The trailers are: mint, thyme, oregano, and prostrate rosemary.  Use a liquid fish emulsion fertilizer every other week. Have fun creating your herb pot and mix it up with a few colorful annuals too!

Certified Horticulturalist? Yes, Masters degree from UF

Started at Palmer’s: October, 2010

Favorite Flower:

Why?:

At Palmer’s we can most likely find you….In the “BOX”

hometown? Orlando, FL

favorite flower? Geranium

Why? longevity, abundant flowers, and forgiving

At Palmer’s, we can most likely find you where? ” At the bank”,  opening mail, or writing checks

June:

1. Fruits and Citrus

Watch for pests, mainly whitefly and aphids. If infected, you can treat with a malathion oil and follow the directions on the label.  It’s VERY IMPORTANT to make sure you apply this product at dusk or out of a direct sun exposure because the oil will burn the leaves.  Fertilize with a slow release that contains the three macroelements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) as well as the microelements.

2. Ornamentals

You can fertilize all your ornamental plants during this month.  We recommend using a general Plant Tone or feel free to use a Palm Tone that will contain more of the micro-elements which plants do need from time to time.  Watch for any pests – it is summer and they are out there, so treat as necessary.  Prune when needed.

3. Lawn

Apply a “summer fertilizer” to the lawn at this time – anything with a slow release nitrogen will work.  Just be cautious of products with a weed control because of the heat.  The overall temperature in the summer can be too hot for those kinds of chemicals.  However, you can use fertilizers with a pesticide or treat with a Bug Blaster separate from the fertilizer application.  Feel free to bump your watering schedule to three times a week on the lawn.  Be mindful of the rainfall totals, too much water equals rot!

4. Palms

Now is a good time to fertilize with a Palm Tone.  All palms should have flushed out new fronds, even if they were affected by a cold snap or frost.  Feel free to remove any discolored fronds.

July:

1. Fruits and Citrus

Just prune when needed and keep an eye out for any pests.  Treat as needed.

2. Ornamentals

If you missed the chance to fertilize in June, you are more than welcome to do so during July.  If any pruning is done, go light, nothing too heavy.

3. Lawn

Summer has really set in by now, so it is hot and humid which equals disease and pests.  Get out there weekly if you can and just take a look around the yard and see if you can find anything that may look like a disease or pest issue.  If so, treat as needed.  A good tip to help reduce some fungal issues is to be sure your mower blades are kept sharp.  Dull blades don’t cut grass, but tear and shred it instead.

4. Palms

Simply keep up with any necessary pruning.

August

1. Fruits and Citrus

Keep an eye out for any nutrient deficiencies, which you can easily solve with a fertilization.  Also watch for any pest issues, particularly sucking pests.  You can treat with an organic systemic insecticide – follow the directions on the label.

2. Ornamentals

Check weekly for any pests in the landscape and treat only as needed.  If you do see some yellowing in leaves, it is alright.  It’s summer, so a lot of rain, heat and humidity can do that to plants.

3. Lawn

Make sure you keep on top of a regular watering schedule of two to three times a week and sharpened mower blades. A lawn in poor condition can increase your chance of disease and pest problems.  You can fertilize if you want, but if it isn’t necessary, you’re best not to.  Fertilizer will simply make your lawn grow even quicker and need to be cut every few days.

4. Palms

You can do another fertilization if you desire.  Use a Palm Tone to ensure you are getting the micro-nutrients necessary for the palm to remain healthy.  One common problem in Florida with palms is a magnesium deficiency.  It will start in the older leaves and will progress to the newer growth through time.  The leaf margins will yellow, while the centers will remain destinctly green.  Fortunately, this is an easy treatment – simply apply an epsom salt once per month until all leaves appear normal once again.

Tip 1: Clear your yard.
It is important to reduce the amount of outside objects that could potentially fly around and cause damage. This includes any lawn ornaments, flags, toys, and anything else lying around unsecured. Once you’ve removed those items you can now focus on preparing your plants, flowers, and trees.

Tip 2: Check your trees.
To avoid wind damage, trim any loose, broken, or weak branches from trees. It would be more beneficial to trim trees down to standing sticks that stay rooted, than to keep fuller trees that are more likely to be uprooted by the wind.

Tip 3: Bring plants indoors.
Bring any plants you can indoors to protect them from wind damage. If you are unable to move plants indoors due to size, try to move your plants as close to the house as possible.

Tip 4: Wrap certain trees in blankets or landscape clothes.
The idea is to avoid an uprooted plant, regardless if some minor damage such as broken limbs occurs. Remember not to use plastic in doing so and collect cuttings from unremovable plants.

Tip 5: Provide your yard with adequate drainage.
Obviously heavy rains accompany the winds, and flooding is as much of a problem as wind damage.  In order to avoid flooding, it may be necessary to provide a dry ditch (possibly filled with rocks) to collect the excess water.

If you follow these easy tips, it can save you the time, money, and hassle of dealing with problems later.  Remember, for all your prevention and maintenance products, visit Palmer’s Garden!

To help you get started, follow these simple steps:

Step One: Conduct Your Research

First, it’s important to find what butterflies are native to your area, and make a list of all the different kinds you would like to attract.  From there, determine which plants and flowers the butterflies lay their eggs on, and on which their larvae (caterpillars) feed.  It is important to include host plants for the caterpillars’ homes, and nectar plants for the butterflies to feed.  For example, the Painted Lady butterfly larvae prefer sunflowers as the host plants, and the butterfly bush as their source of nectar.  Note that butterflies tend to look for sources of food by color, size, shape and fragrance – all important when choosing your flowers.

Step Two: Choose Your Location

Do not get discouraged if you lack a garden of your own, or even a backyard.  A butterfly garden can be any size ranging from a small window box to an area of your property.  Here are a few necessary tips in choosing your site:

1)  Choose a large, open, sunny area.  Butterflies tend to be more active in the sun!

2)  Make sure the area is protected from the wind.  If this is impossible, determine which direction the wind generally comes from and plant windbreakers such as shrubby nectar and food plants.  Other examples include small fences and even large rocks.

3)  Keep in mind the estimated full growth of your plants.  The area should be large enough, and also allow the plants to receive enough light and water.

All of this could require some planning on paper, but get creative!

Step Three: Cultivate Your Soil

Once you have designed your layout and purchased the seeds necessary to start your garden, the next step is to plant them.  Constructing the garden will vary, depending on how much work needs to be completed before preparing your fresh plot of soil.  Make sure the soil is loose enough to softly crumble in your hands, then rake it lightly, and scatter the seeds evenly throughout.  If necessary, eliminate any weeds from the area, and always remember to water the area daily until the seeds germinate and the plants are well established.

Step Four: Create Mud Puddle Areas

Since butterflies can’t drink from open water, permanent puddles are also an important addition to your garden.  One way to create these is to bury a bucket to the rim and fill it with gravel or sand.  Then, pour liquids such as stale beer, sweet drinks, or even water inside.  Finally add some twigs or rocks on top for perches.  If your area is too small for this, a small pan filled with mud will do just fine.

Additional Tips:

1)  Add some garden accessories, such as a butterfly house, which has slots to keep birds out, and also protects the butterflies from the wind.

2)  Offer additional sources of nectar to supplement your flowers.

3)  Avoid the use of pesticides – this one’s a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised how many gardeners overlook this simple step.

With the right conditions and care, butterfly gardens are fairly easy to grow, but be patient.  It usually takes a few weeks for the butterflies to appear.

Happy Gardening!